Let’s be honest. The world of skincare can be… well, a bit weird.
We put snail slime on our faces, use vampire facials, and rub gold on our skin. So, when I first heard about the latest trend – using products made from sharks – I wasn’t even that surprised. But I was very, very curious.
That’s right. “Shark Beauty” is slowly swimming into the mainstream. But what is it? Is it a miracle worker for aging skin? Or is it an ethical nightmare hiding in a fancy jar?
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As a beauty writer, I knew I had to dive deep. I’ve looked at the science, spoken to experts, and weighed up the arguments. This is a controversial one, and it’s not simple.
So, let’s pull back the curtain on one of skincare’s most shocking trends. This is everything you need to know about Shark Beauty.
What Exactly Is Shark Beauty?
Let’s start with the basics. “Shark Beauty” doesn’t mean rubbing shark meat on your face (thankfully!). It’s all about one specific ingredient: squalene.
Squalene (with an ‘e’) is a natural oil that our own bodies produce. It’s a key part of our skin’s sebum, the oil that keeps our skin hydrated and soft. It’s a fantastic moisturiser. The problem is, our natural production of squalene drops significantly as we get older, leading to drier skin and more visible wrinkles.
Now, where do sharks come in? For a long time, the richest source of squalene was found in the livers of deep-sea sharks. Squalene makes up about 80% of a shark’s liver oil, helping them with buoyancy in the deep ocean. Beauty companies discovered that this shark-derived squalene was a incredibly effective emollient, making creams and serums feel luxurious and deeply hydrating.
So, “Shark Beauty” refers to skincare products that use this traditional, animal-derived squalene.
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The Big Promise: Why Are People Using It?
Shark-derived squalene isn’t a new ingredient. For decades, it’s been a hidden star in high-end and luxury cosmetics. Here’s why it became so popular:
- Superior Hydration: It’s an incredible moisturiser that mimics our skin’s own oils, meaning it’s easily absorbed and doesn’t feel greasy.
- Antioxidant Protection: It helps protect the skin from environmental damage caused by things like pollution and UV rays.
- A Luxurious Feel: Formulators love it because it gives products a beautiful, smooth, and non-greasy texture that feels expensive.
- Skin Barrier Support: It helps reinforce the skin’s natural barrier, which keeps moisture in and irritants out.
For a long time, it was considered the gold standard. But then, people started asking questions.
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The Dark Side: The Ethical and Environmental Catastrophe
This is where the “controversial” part of the trend hits hard. The beauty industry’s demand for squalene has a devastating hidden cost.
The Shocking Numbers
It’s estimated that up to 3 million sharks are killed every year just for their livers to produce squalene and its derivative, squalane. These are often deep-sea sharks like the gulper shark and the basking shark, species that are incredibly vulnerable because they grow slowly and have few young.
The “Finning” Connection
While squalene is primarily from the liver, the practice is often linked to shark finning. This is the brutal act of cutting off a shark’s fins and throwing the still-living animal back into the ocean to drown. A shark killed for its liver is likely also being used for its fins and meat, making it a multi-purpose slaughter for the fishing industry.
Threat to Ocean Health
Sharks are apex predators. They are absolutely essential for keeping ocean ecosystems in balance. Removing them in such huge numbers causes a catastrophic ripple effect, unbalancing marine life and damaging the health of our oceans.
Organisations like the Shark Trust, a UK-based charity, have been tirelessly campaigning against this practice, highlighting how unsustainable and cruel it is.
The Game-Changer: The Rise of Plant-Based Squalane
Just when it seems like the story is all doom and gloom, there is a brilliant and ethical solution. And it’s one you’ve probably already used without knowing it.
Welcome to squalane (with an ‘a’).
Squalane is the stabilised, hydrogenated version of squalene. It’s what you’ll find in almost all modern skincare products. And the best part? Today, over 95% of it comes from plant sources.
Where Does Plant Squalane Come From?
The same wonderful moisturising properties can be found in the plant kingdom. The most common sources are:
- Olives: This is the most popular and widespread source. Olive-derived squalane is a powerhouse.
- Sugarcane: A brilliant, sustainable and fast-growing source.
- Rice Bran: Another effective and eco-friendly alternative.
- Amaranth Seed: A highly effective plant-based oil.
Is It Just as Good?
This is the most important question. And the answer is a resounding yes.
From a skincare formulation perspective, plant-derived squalane is biologically identical to shark-derived squalane. Your skin cannot tell the difference. It delivers all the same benefits:
- Deep hydration without clogging pores.
- Supports the skin’s barrier function.
- A lightweight, non-greasy texture.
- Antioxidant properties.
Brands like The Ordinary, which is famous for its transparent formulations, offer a 100% Plant-Derived Squalane that is incredibly effective and affordable, proving that you don’t need to harm animals for great skincare.
How to Be a Shark-Savvy Shopper: Your Checklist
So, how can you make sure you’re not accidentally buying a product that harms sharks? It’s easier than you think.
- Look for “Plant-Derived”: This is the most important label to look for. Brands that use the ethical source will proudly state “100% Plant-Derived Squalane” on the packaging.
- Check the Ingredients List: The ingredient will almost always be listed as “Squalane.” If it just says “Squalane,” it is almost certainly plant-based these days. If a brand is still using shark, they are unlikely to advertise it.
- Research the Brand’s Ethics: A quick online search of a brand’s “sustainability” or “ethics” page can tell you a lot. Do they have a clear stance on animal-derived ingredients?
- Be Wary of Vague Terms: If a product just says “natural squalane” without specifying the source, it’s okay to be suspicious. You can always contact the brand’s customer service to ask.
- Support Certifications: Look for logos from organisations like The Leaping Bunny, which signifies the product is cruelty-free, a good indicator of a brand’s overall ethical stance.
The Big Question: So, Is Shark Beauty the Next Big Thing?
Here is my final take.
Is shark-derived squalene effective? Yes, it is a very good moisturising ingredient.
Should it be the next big thing? Absolutely not.
The “trend” of using shark-based ingredients is not the future; it’s a relic of the past. The real next big thing has already arrived, and it’s 100% plant-based, sustainable, and cruelty-free beauty.
The conversation around Shark Beauty is crucial because it reminds us to be conscious consumers. It shows us that we can have high-performing, luxurious skincare without causing unimaginable harm to our planet.
The technology exists. The alternatives are here, they are affordable, and they work just as well. There is simply no excuse left for using shark-derived squalene in our creams and serums.
The Verdict: A Trend We Should Let Sink
Exploring the world of Shark Beauty is a fascinating journey. It teaches us about skincare science, but more importantly, it teaches us about ethics.
This isn’t a trend we should embrace. It’s one we should actively reject. The beauty industry is moving towards a greener, kinder future, and shark squalene has no place in it.
We can all make a difference with our wallets. By choosing plant-derived squalane, we’re not just caring for our own skin; we’re helping to protect the magnificent and vital creatures that live in our oceans.
Now that’s a beauty result we can all feel good about.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
1. What is the actual difference between squalENE and squalANE?
This is the most important distinction. Squalene (with an ‘e’) is the natural, unstable form of the compound. It’s found in shark livers and human sebum, but it oxidizes (goes bad) quickly when exposed to air, making it poor for skincare. Squalane (with an ‘a’) is the hydrogenated, stable, and shelf-stable version used in 99.9% of modern skincare products. The crucial point is that squalane can be derived from both shark livers and plants, but plant-based squalane is now the industry standard and is biologically identical in its benefits.
2. If it’s so controversial, why was shark squalene ever used in the first place?
For decades, shark liver oil was the most abundant and cost-effective source of high-quality squalene. Its exceptional moisturizing properties were highly prized in luxury cosmetics, and the environmental impact was either unknown or ignored. Before the rise of sustainable biotechnology, the beauty industry relied heavily on what was readily available from the natural world, with little scrutiny of the supply chain. It was a case of efficacy and convenience overshadowing ethics.
3. How can I be 100% sure that a product I’m buying doesn’t contain shark-derived ingredients?
To be absolutely certain, follow these steps:
- Check the Label: Look for explicit wording like “100% Plant-Derived Squalane,” “Vegetable-Derived Squalane,” or “Olive-Derived Squalane.”
- Research the Brand’s Ethics: Visit the brand’s website. Reputable, transparent companies will have a sustainability or ethics page stating their commitment to plant-based ingredients and being cruelty-free.
- Look for Vegan Certification: Products certified by organizations like The Vegan Society or Leaping Bunny are guaranteed to be free of animal-derived ingredients, including shark squalene.
- When in Doubt, Ask: Don’t hesitate to email a brand’s customer service team directly to ask for the source of their squalane.
4. Is plant-derived squalane as effective as the shark-derived version?
Yes, and in a practical sense, it’s actually superior. Because plant-derived squalane is biologically identical to the squalane derived from sharks, your skin cannot tell the difference. It provides the same excellent hydration, barrier support, and non-greasy feel. Furthermore, plant-derived squalane is often purer and less likely to contain oceanic pollutants that can be present in shark livers. From a performance and safety standpoint, the plant-based version is a clear winner.
5. Are there any other surprising animal-derived ingredients in my skincare?
Unfortunately, yes. The beauty industry uses many animal by-products. Some common ones include:
- Carmine/Cochineal: A red pigment made from crushed beetles, used in lipsticks and blushes.
- Lanolin: A grease from sheep’s wool, used as an emollient in lip balms and lotions.
- Guanine: Provides shimmer in eyeshadows and nail polishes; it’s often derived from fish scales.
- Collagen and Elastin: Almost always sourced from the connective tissue of cows or fish.
This is why checking labels and supporting transparent brands is so important.
6. What are the best plant-based sources for squalane?
The most common and sustainable sources are olives, sugarcane, rice bran, and amaranth seeds. Olive-derived squalane is particularly popular because it’s highly effective and the olive industry has a well-established supply chain for this by-product. Sugarcane squalane is also a fantastic, fast-growing, and renewable resource.
7. I have oily/acne-prone skin. Is squalane a good ingredient for me?
Absolutely. In fact, it can be a game-changer. Squalane is a sebum-mimicking oil, meaning it’s very similar to the oil your skin naturally produces. When you use it, it can help “trick” your skin into thinking it has produced enough oil, potentially balancing sebum production. It is also non-comedogenic, meaning it is very unlikely to clog pores. It provides lightweight, essential hydration without the heaviness that can lead to breakouts.
8. Beyond squalane, what are other ethical and sustainable moisturizing ingredients I can look for?
The plant kingdom is full of powerful alternatives. Excellent ethical moisturizers include:
- Jojoba Oil: Very similar to human sebum, great for all skin types.
- Shea Butter: A rich, nourishing butter perfect for very dry skin.
- Rosehip Seed Oil: Packed with antioxidants and fatty acids.
- Hyaluronic Acid: A superstar hydrator now almost exclusively fermented from plants like wheat.
Brands like The Ordinary and Paula’s Choice are excellent for transparent, effective, and ethically-sourced moisturizing ingredients.
9. What is being done to stop the practice of shark hunting for squalene?
Awareness is the primary driver of change. Conservation groups like the Shark Trust and Sea Shepherd campaign relentlessly to expose this industry and push for better fishing regulations and protected species status. Consumer pressure has been the most effective tool; as demand for plant-based squalane has soared, the economic incentive to hunt sharks for their livers has decreased. However, continued vigilance and supporting these organizations is crucial for protecting vulnerable shark populations.
10. Is “Shark Beauty” a trend we should support?
Unequivocally, no. While the conversation about Shark Beauty is important for raising awareness, the practice itself is a relic of a less-conscious past. The “next big thing” in beauty is not a new animal to exploit, but a move towards biotechnology, sustainability, and transparency. By choosing plant-derived and vegan skincare, you are voting for a beauty industry that is innovative, ethical, and kind to our planet. True modern beauty should not come at the cost of an entire species.
